The Way to Santiago Blog

No alarm clock this morning, even though I hadn’t had to share the room with anyone. I was awake just after 7am, more blister plasters fitted, extra talc used, paid, stamped and I’m off!
Well bugger me within 100m I’m having to ascend the wall of the gorge, I’ve been walking twenty minutes and already I’m walking dolly steps. Half an hour, I stop and eat a dry pain au chocolat. Ten minutes later I’m out of the gorge but still climbing, oh my poor feet. Over the next 7km (approx), I’m gradually climbing from an average of 600m (above sea level) to over 1000m. I’ve been overtaken by every pilgrim that set off after me, French, Swiss, luckily no other English…
Within the first couple of hours of walking the suns warmth overcame the winds, and so, like a geek, I unzipped the trouser legs, I even took off my coat. I donned sun cream despite now being cold. As soon as I set off again the three stone backpack soon warmed me up again. By lunch time I’d arrived in the larger town of Saugues.
As I entered the town I came across some amazing wood carvings, but one stood out from the rest, it was a carving of le Bête du Gevaudan. For as long as I have wanted to walk this route, I have also been intrigued into the history surrounding the beast of Gevaudan. Often blamed on a wolf, as they inhabited the region back in the 18C, or a lynx that was killed some years later, but between the dates of 1765 – 1768 at least 50 people were killed, mainly woman & children.
I had planned to stay in Saugues tonight but being here so early I decided to push on despite the pain from my feet (and chaffing). Within the next hour I started to regret my decision. The next village was La Clauze, 7km away and supposedly no place to stay. The closest being another 2.5km after that in Le Falzet.
I took my time trying not to walk on my right heal, damn it hurts. I arrived in the small village of La Clauze to find there was a gite d’etape, great news, if it’d been open. This place looks so tranquil as well. I soldiered on to the two buildings that were Le Falzet. One organised the accommodation, the other sold cold drinks to thirsty pilgrims. I stopped at both.
For dinner I munched on some crusty French bread, dry cured sausage and local Cantal cheese, sounds nice & local doesn’t it. Add to that a cup of green tea and a chicken complan and voila, my meal is complete.
Finally off with the boots. Left foot, blister on ball of foot disappearing, good news. Right foot, ouch…ball of foot fine, blister seems to have calmed and reduced, however the blister on my heal, oh my god, it’s big, and it’s grown around to my outside heal. I have no choice but to do the needle trick. Me being me, I decide not to leave the thread in the blister to act as a wick, oh no, I just ease the discoloured juice from my skin, rolling my heal to extract it all. Let’s see how that is in the morning? After all, if that’s ok all I have to worry about are my cramped calf muscles and some serious chaffing.
Nine o’clock and it’s time for bed… Hopefully soon I’ll find a wireless signal so I can update wordpress with going bankrupt using my roaming charges…

A slightly restless night was followed by a 6.30am wake up call. Oh yeah, it’s mine….sorry French dude upstairs?! After blister plasters were administered and talc for the chaffing, I packed my bag, ate a slightly dry croissant, had my pilgrim passport stamped and head off into the early morning light. There are some serious clouds today and a very strong wind, oh dear I do believe it may rain….
With my feet the way they are I have had to slow my it’s art right down. Just as well as within half an hour I’m facing some serious uphill walking. Now don’t get me wrong, fifteen years ago I would have run up a mere hill like this, but back then I wasn’t nearing 15 stone with a 3.5 stone backpack on me, I was fitter, healthier, and had only smoked for half as long as I had up until a month ago (when I quit…again)…. Oh I could so smoke right now?!!
Well I kept my coat on all day, I was a little sweaty but meh… The rain held off but the wind kept up and the sun was in & out like…. Hmmmm?!
Today has been miserable, with some beautiful scenery. The ups were killing me, the downs were killing my feet. One minute I was happy on my adventure, the next miserable and lonely, missing my girlfriend (and I haven’t got to the stage of full on conversation with myself yet).
I managed 13km to Monistrol-d’Allier by lunch. I could have carried on, despite the soreness and my feet, but I had arranged to meet my parents for lunch as they were heading back over to their place in the Lot. After lunch, where we discovered our chef was originally from Taunton, bizarre… I waved my parents off and went back to my shared room, no one else here yet… Woo hoo. (Luckily for me it stayed like that to).
Again, the low swept over me, now it really is me on my own, with sore f^*king feet! To make matters worse the next 31km are all up hill…yippee…
They do say the first week is the hardest….(especially if you haven’t trained)…!

Arrived at the cathedral of notre-dame in le Puy for 7am mass and pilgrims blessings. I would estimate there were at least 30 people ready to set off, some just doing a section whilst others like myself would be attempting the whole distance. Turns out I was the only one (at least to admit it) who could not speak French?!
After a quick coffee with the old folks, I donned my gear and set off following the guide book’s directions, it wasn’t long until I no longer needed it as the way is very well waymarked.
Although the day had started off fairly chilly it soon warmed up and I got into my stride….for at least 5km until I realised my new (and expensive) walking boots that every friggin’ expert said I needed, were not being kind to my feet! After 15km I stopped in a village by the name of Montbonnet. After waiting aimlessly outside the gite d’etape for almost an hour, I, being in a strop by now, walked up the road and found a bar, aptly called bar St. Jaques. The owners were very hospitable and I booked myself into one of their rooms. Quickly getting my boots off I found not one but three blisters… Balls!!!
I can’t blame Euan at Ellis Brigham in Bristol as he only suggested I consider proper boots, I can however name & blame Barkers of Ringwood, who supposedly hold the largest stock of outdoor boots in the UK and who claim they won’t sell you boots unless they themselves are happy with the fit…! Well guys, it may take me a few months to get back to you, but be warned, after all you’re measuring and spiel about proper boots. I’m coming back to you to complain!
(at this point I’d like to make a quick note to anyone considering this pilgrim route or any other. Stick with your gut instincts, if you want to wear boots that you’ve worn every day for years, knowing that when they’re about to fall apart you can go to the shop, or order online, without the need to try them on, then wear them. Do not listen to so called experts a) that work in shops, because they don’t know jack, or b) that write in magazines, because 90% of the time they’re biased as to who is giving them the most freebies or money for advertising).
Aahhh rant over.
So anyway, I washed my socks & pants (and myself), read a little and then after a brief hello from the folks who came to my rescue with my old boots (thank you thank you thank you). I briefly spoke to my beautiful girl back at home and then by, ooh, I don’t know, 7.30pm, I was in bed!
These blisters need to heal fast!!!

Well today was a 5 hour drive across France to le Puy en Velay. Another beautiful hot day although we had strong winds through the night. I’ve already popped into the cathedral sacristy and had my pilgrim passport stamped, the lady seemed shocked I, a Brit, was walking the whole route… Probably due to my lack of French?! I have to be at church for 7am for a blessing before I depart.

This is yesterday’s blog, but I had connection problems….

Today was about the supermarket and butterflies…

We popped into Gourdon to pick up some shopping for the old folks. I have to say I was looking for the ‘tabac’, it’s been about a month since I quit smoking and I really could have used one today… But alas a tabac I didn’t see. After lunch I went off exploring the local area, I decided to head back once I’d seen a host of butterflies and praying mantis, only to be taken back out because dad then wanted to see the veritable display of flora & fauna!

I’ve also managed to repack my backpack, taking out some bits here & there, not that the bits I’ve taken out will make any difference to the weight!

I have to have everything ready tonight as we leave for le Puy en Velay in the morning, it’s approximately 200 miles. The silly thing is, on my walk I’ll pass just south of here?! So the anxiety has kicked back in…

I woke in our cabin around sunrise, I had been on a top bunk which shouldn’t have been a problem for an able bodied youngster like myself. Only now I realise, I am neither young or able bodied, I am in fact closer to forty than thirty, I’m overweight and I’m due a slapped wrist for my diet. God help me, what have I got myself in to?
We arrived in la Havre shortly before 8am, by quarter past we were driving on French soil.

10am – We stop for our first French coffee & pain au chocolat, I stretch my legs, there’s not a cloud in the sky. We still have a long way to go to my parents place in Gourdon.

1pm – We’ve stopped and seen wild European pond tortoises and had lunch. I feel like a kid again, looking out for wildlife as we go. So far I’ve come across – red kite, black kite, hen harrier, buzzards, hares, fox, deer, pheasants and of course the tortoises…?!

6pm – Finally we’ve arrived at my parents place, it’s a very nice static caravan. (No jokes about trailer parks and white trash please, the folks here wouldn’t like it). We had dinner with some of the residents who are my parents friends.

11pm – Bed, which I believe may actually be smaller than my sleeping mat?!

Goodbye blighty… See you in 3 months?!!

Well I’m now sat in the car at Portsmouth harbour waiting for LD Lines to clear the ferry and let us on board! An overnight ferry with my old folks?! Let’s hope my iPod doesn’t die! The anxiety has subsided for now, but I’m sure it’ll return tomorrow. My mind races with a million thoughts…
I do have to thank my beautiful girlfriend for being the first to donate £50 exactly which means she will receive the first limited edition print from the 50 I have to help UNICEF with their fundraiser 50 plan! Come on everyone else, spread the word, get those donations coming in! UNICEF helps children in more than 190 countries with education, medication & nutrition…! Don’t deny childs rights…

UNICEF are pushing a new ‘My Fundraise 50’ challenge. I have already set my goal but for their ‘fundraise 50’ I have  introduced a bonus in the hope some of you will donate.

The deal is the first 50 people to donate £50.00 will be given a signed limited edition print from the journey on my return. These images will hopefully be used to publish a large coffee table styled photographic journal of my pilgrimage, with 75% of the profits going to UNICEF.

By the time I got away from the Crown on Sunday it was gone midday. It was a gloriously hot sunny day in Somerset, the ride down to my parents gave me time to reflect on everything thats happened recently at the Crown. I will miss several people in Frome but I do not regret making my decision to leave. Staying with parents, who are not happy about the amount of clutter I have, who can blame them?! I have filled half their house with half my belongings, the other half are still in the studio I’ve let out. Today I began to lay out everything for my pilgrimage, hmmm, I may need to review it all. Tomorrow I have to ride down to Ringwood to check out some walking boots! I always leave things to the last minute…. I keep thinking this time next week I’ll be in ‘le Puy en Velay, France’ getting ready to set off. Am I nervous very, but I have become a twitter fiend, and in doing so I have some very special people following me. Between the support from family, friends & strangers, and the little faith I have, I know I can succeed.