Day Twenty Eight

Once again a late start this morning. Although I did eat breakfast. I know it’s nobodies fault and if it annoys me I should say something, but I’d rather survive the next few days and then I’ll be walking solo again anyway.
We leave gite Nadette and follow our instructions to rejoin the way. Our views this morning are magnificent and it wipes all annoyances from my mind. By midday we are already in Navarrenx, a beautiful fortified town. The walk in has been pleasant, rolling landscapes with mountains standing proud in the background.
On the way into town Marcus mentions he has a pain in his ankle so he and Sylvie decide to have a rest and stay in Navarrenx. I nearly did the same but Anette wants to go on a bit further. I decide I need to start walking early again and knowing Anette finishes at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port I decide to carry on as well. I’m sure I will see the others on the road again.
As we leave the town, it’s ancient defences become even more apparent. We have another 14km before the next chance of accommodation and at the time we didn’t know if there would be any space…
The walking is a much better pace, we walk almost casually between fields and over hills, past farmers cutting meadows with red kites and buzzards circling overhead, and angry dogs barking from behind gates.
Finally we arrive at the top of a hill with a crossroad, on the other corner is some shade welcoming pelerins (pilgrims). At first glance I thought it may serve some cold drinks but as we cross over we see it is just picnic benches and a place to buy pate. We stop anyway with two other pilgrims already here. The owner of the business is supremely kind and spends nearly an hour helping us arrange accommodation for tonight and the next two nights to the Pyrenees. Also, one of the other pilgrims buys me some pate as a kind gesture. I think Anette was telling them I had little money. It’s true, I carry all this kit but my money hasn’t gone as far as I thought?!
Tonight we stay with a retired policeman in Lichos, approximately 28km from Sauvelade.
We make our way down to Lichos, delaying ourselves slightly by first going the wrong way, (again the GR65 has moved) and then seeing a new born calf in a field in the heat with no mother around so we had to go and find a farmer…
Anyway, we’re here now. I’m washing and refreshed. I know I have a bed for the next two nights and by then I’ll be facing the biggest climb of my life. Yes I am worried. No I will not give in, or quit. If I manage successfully I may even put some extra weight back in my bag once in Spain. Don’t ask me why….
I go to bed now, happy knowing I’ve caught up on my blog. I feel more content how today has panned out and know that I have more challenges yet to overcome!
Goodnight & God bless.

About waytosantiago

The way of St. James is one of the three largest Christian pilgrimages of the world. I intend to walk one of the many routes which begins in le Puy en Velay, France. The route has been trodden by many weary souls, looking for answers, looking for adventure, for the obvious religious reasons, or just walked for the sake of it. I first came across the route about 6 years ago whilst reading Paulo Coelho’s ‘The Pilgrimage’, I decided maybe something could be learnt from spending so much time on the road in solitude. Being the kind of person that lives to work, these ideas were put on hold whilst my life moved steadily forward. Recently I’ve found myself longing for adventure and decided it was time to begin planning. Another thing I decided was if I was going to do this, I may as well try and raise money for charity along the way. So the story begins...
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1 Response to Day Twenty Eight

  1. agaath says:

    Hi Tom
    Once arrived back home, I looked for your weblog. Do you remember me and my sister (from the netherlands). We met one anther several times and drank coffee at the bakery together.
    Good luck with the big mountain! You can do it!.
    Greet Annette from me; we shared a room in the gite at Aire sur l`Adour.
    Bon chemin Agaath

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